Tuesday, September 3, 2013

At Home in Westbank

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Back in Canada we are busy enjoying friends and family and doing the things that we love to do here at home, which remind us why we love Canada.  Our house continues to be rented so the first two weeks in Westbank we spent a Ken's parents place, taking over their spare room, and then moved on to my parents house where we moved into my old bedroom in the basement.  When will the kids really leave home???

As always we can't be without our wheels (2 down on the rubber kind) so we purchased a beautiful white Suzuki 650 for Ken and a racey (ha, ha) red KLR 650 for me (on which Ken cut down the seat and adjusted the front forks so I can just barely touch flat foot), I love it.  We also decided to buy a van to camp in for the rest of the summer and fall.  We found a solid, rust free, '92 1 tonn Chevy-van in Osooyos with lots of room to throw our mattress on the floor in the back along with a propane cook-stove and lantern, and all the rest of the camping stuff.  We have been back for just over 5 weeks now and we have made it out camping once and are getting quite a bit of use out of our bikes.  With still two months left in Canada before we plan on leaving again we have time for several bike trips and camp weekends, there is always something and somewhere to see around here.


A nice day for a ride!  On the way to Chris and Kim's wedding in Kamloops we stopped to enjoy the view at Trapp Lake along Hyw 5a.


Dad does the bbqing, tasty artisian pizzas...can't wait for dinner!


Ken loves anything with a motor and  back at the Ficke farm he tries his hand at driving the 
John Deere AO. (You have to love my mom's geraniums too!)


Who are these masked men?  Ken and Tony take a ride up into bush around Westbank.  Ken was lucky Tony had an extra Honda CRF450X dirtbike for him to use...he realy missed the riding.


We have some great cooks for friends.  Brian and Sandy invited us down for a Dutch Oven chicken dinner, complete with roasted potatoes, carrots, parsnips and squash.


The sunset on the treetops at Windy Lake (and that was about all the sun we saw on our 4 day camping trip).


A Waterskidder (is that their real name?) sitting on top of the water...looking and waiting for what?


A nice afternoon for a paddle around Windy Lake.  Ken caught a couple of fish and made it in to shore before the rain began again.


At last, the fire ban was lifted and we were able to have a campfire and warm up a little.  The first night out went down to 3 degrees...brrrr.


A nice afternoon and a 275 km roundtrip from Westbank, up behind Peachland and over to Princeton via the Osprey Lake Fst Road then back thru Hedley, up the hill to the Nickel Plate mine and over to Apex and Green Lake road.  Checkout the switchbacks up the hill in the background behind Thomas, Scott and Ken.


"What are you looking at?"  A black bear enjoyed eating something in the bush that was lip-smacking good...


and just steps away from the bridges and latters at Hardy Falls in Peachland.  We took our Czech friends (that we met on Tioman Island, Malasyia) to see the spawning Kokanee, what bonus when they also got to see their first bear!


A major transformation occurs when the Kokanee return to Deep Creek every year to spawn. The beautiful red colour lasts only for the short time before they are beat up and eventually die as they make their way upstream.

Wednesday, July 31, 2013

The Maritimes and Atlantic Canada

                                                                
                                                                Back in Canada!


                                                            Halifax Farmers Market.


                      Peggy's Cove, one of thr most photographed places in the Maritimes.


Lobster traps line every dock, at all times of the day.


Lobster Lane, I love it!


A great hike along the beach at Harbour Rocks, at Cape Joli Head, Nova Scotia.  The water was so clear, maybe a little cold to us western wimps but very blue and clear!


Yes, it is rocky!


Smoking some little Kippers.


Digby Scallops and Fish and Chips, we love em!


Lobster boys mark traps in season and the walls of sheds in the off season.


In the Bay of Fundy the tide the difference in high and low tide can be up to 12.5 metres and over 1/3 of the bay floor is exposed at low tide, it is one of the largest in the world.


Cape Split on the northwest side of Nova Scotia does exactly that...split.  Off in the distance you can just make out the shores of New Brunswick.


To get an idea, Ken is standing beside a bank lined with seaweed that would be underwater at high tide.


Alma Lobster Shop is the place to go for great lobster.  You can buy them cooked, they will make them ready to eat by breaking up the shell for you (they will even supply butter and picks).  Ours was not this big (7 kgs)!  We wish!


Pictures perfect small towns in PEI.


Ken gets a taste of farming.


We had some on the most amazing camping spots, this one is at Cape Meat off the Cabot Trail in Nova Scotia.


What a great summer job portraying the folks that lived 400 years ago in Fort Louis-burg.
 

Not all days were sunshine.


Monte Gros Morne in the rear.  We hiked the 16 km and 806 mt. in just under 6 hours, return.


There is great hiking in Newfoundland, Rob took us to this viewpoint located just outside Cornerbrook.


Did I mention we loved the lobster?  We tried it in Nova Scotia, PEI and Newfoundland.


The puffins at Ellison possed for us in front of their burrow/nest.  They are a way too cool looking bird.


Gannets nest on the rocky cliffs of St. Mary's bay. Beautiful and so very elegant.
 

Along the way as we hiked around Signal Hill we stopped for a photo with Fort Amherst in the background.


Mailboxs depict the colourful rowhouses in Halifax.


Westjet flew us home a beautiful sunny day.  Even if we couldn't drive home across Canada we got to see a lot of it from the air.



After a great tour in Europe, S.E. Asia and Iceland we decided it was time to come home to Canada.   Heinz sold our trusty Honda Africa Twin in Germany and we came to Canada with plans to buy a couple of bikes or maybe a van in which we could camp our way home across Canada.  Neither one happened as we were not able to buy, register and insure any type of vehicle(except new)without a permanent address, the only thing we could get would be a transfer permit that allowed us to travel from point A in Nova Scotia to point B in Westbank...directly...that wouldn't do!  Sooo.  What to do?  Rent a car...let someone else worry about all that stuff, so that is what we did, a different way to go for us but it turned out great.  Using our camping equipment from the bike and buying a few odds and ends like a cooler and some extra pillows, blankets and cooking supplies we hit the road for a 5 week tour of the Maritime provinces.  In Nova Scotia, New Bruswick, and P.E.I. we drove a Chevy Cruz and in Newfoundland in a Toyota Corolla, we would have stayed with the Cruz but the company we rented with wouldn't let us take it to Newfoundland so we traded it in and Enterprise gave us a way too good a deal on the Corolla, they even let us pick up the car in Halifax and drop it off a St. John's, Newfoundland with only a $125 drop-off fee(unheard of according to a couple of other rental car agencies)!  We purchased a cheap flight, St.John's to Kelowna, which left 5 weeks after arriving back in Canada...and so the new saga begins.

Only 7 1/2 hours after saying good-bye to our dear friends in Germany we landed in Halifax with a detailed description in hand of how to get to our soon to be friends and fellow couch surfer's place in the heart of the city.  Ray and Chantel opened their house and lives to us for 3 days, they were great hosts and made us feel totally at home.   So as discribed above we started out to explore Nova Scotia and shortly realized it was kind of nice travelling with a car, mainly...room for a cooler to keep a few groceries and room for a few luxuries like jeans and sweaters for the cooler weather (something you just can't do on a motobike) these we found at yard sales as we went along.  The yard sales were fun in themselves as we got to meet a few locals along the way, let's make a deal.  It was also nice to be able to have campfires at night, we bought some cool fire logs to carry with us, made from compressed shavings.  We visited the usual tourist spots in Nova Scotia; Peggies Cove, Digby (for their famous scallops...yum, yum), Luninburg with the Blue Nose 2 and the Bay of Fundy, not to mention many provincial parks.  We slipped into New Bruswick as we ventured to the north of Nova Scotia and spent 2 days visiting The Flowerpot Rocks and trying a little of the lobster in Alma before leaving the rain behind us (New Brunswick was the only place we had to get a motel due to bad weather) and moving on to P.E.I.

We totally circumnavigated P.E.I. visiting places like Summerside, The North Cape, Cavendish, East Point, Georgletown and Charlottetown.  Of course we had to try a few P.E.I. potatoes, tasted the salt air blowing off the shore, went to a local theatre production and ate lobster dinner in the basement of St. Anne's church.  We arrived across the Confederation Bridge and we left the same way five days later.

Just under three weeks down and we returned to Halifax to exchange our Cruz and pick up the Corolla that we would take to finish up touring the northeast of Nova Scotia and continue on to Newfoundland.  After the switch of cars, a quick stop to say hi to Ray and Chantel (our couchsurfing friends) and to stock up on a few groceries at Costco, we were off again.  The last part of our tour in Nova Scotia was the Cabot Trail in Cape Breton, we had been looking forward to this because we had heard so much about it from other tourists.  Once again, we were just a little disappointed and thought the trail didn't quite stack up to all our expectations...maybe we have seen too many beautiful areas that we tend to compare other places to?  I don't know.  Anyway...let's talk about the roads.  OMG, we found most of the roads in the Maritimes horrible, I really hate to say it but it is true...we were glad to be driving a rent a car!

We took the ferry from North Sydney, Nova Scotia to Port aux Basques, Newfoundland, and in about 6 hours and $200 later we were in 'love at first sight"!   Coming from Iceland we found a similarity between the two even though Newfoundland is located mainly below the 50th parallel and Iceland above the 60th.  Apart from the lava fields in Iceland, they both had short stubby trees, lots of wind, and a type of boggy tundraish vegetation.   Even though we had been worned about all the moose and having to be very careful driving the highways we only saw one moose on our whole trip and that was in Gros Morne National Park and at a long distance!  Cornerbrook was our first stop.  Rob, a friend from Mission, B.C., was at home in Newfoundland visiting his mom and invited us to stay with them.  What a treat!  Rob was able to give us the low down on the area, taking us on several hikes and also to a local theatre consisting of traditional songs and stories about the area.  And...his mom made us a lobster dinner!  You really have to love it!  On leaving Cornerbrook Rob came with us to Gros Morne N.P. where we hiked Gros Morne mountian, 806 m., oh what a view!  That night it was off to Rocky Habour and another show which I can honestly say rivalled any Irish Rovers show from back in the day!  If you are there you MUST go.  Leaving the east coast of NFL behind Ken and I set out on a mission to find icebergs and puffins.  In Twillingate, iceberg alley, we were informed that it was not a good year for the bergs and we wouldn't be seeing any locally...crap!  We missed seeing puffins in Iceland and we refused be skunked again, off we went from Twillingate to  Elliston and the Puffin Festival.  Yes, we saw puffins and from there we travelled south to Cape St. May's where the fog parted for us and we were captivated by the gannets, nesting on the cliffs.  Finally, we arrived in St. John's in time to visit Signal Hill and walk the famous George St.

We dropped off our rental car a couple hours before our plane left and once again the people at the rental desk couldn't believe what a great deal we got from Enterprise in Halifax...knowone is ever allowed to rent a car in Nova Scotia and drive it to NFL.  All we could do was smile, for once, just our luck!  The plane ride was a quick 3 1/2 hours to Toronto then 4 1/2 hours to Kelowna, read a little, a couple of drinks and a snack...and Bob's your uncle...home again!

















Monday, June 17, 2013

Iceland

I will have to let the pictures do the talking here.  Iceland was beautiful but unseasonably cold and wet, as usual the weather was following us.  Locals told us that last year was the best and warmest in history...just our luck.  But...we can never do anything about the weather.   This is a part of what we saw. 

On the way through Denmark to we couldn't help but notice the fields upon fields of rap ready to harvest.
 
On the northern tip of Denmark is Hirtshals where we caught the ferry to Iceland.  Of course if you have a tip of land complete with a port you must have a lighthouse and this one was very old and housed a museum.

Smyril Line whisked us away.  We had booked a small inside cabin that turned out to be the worst on the ship I'm sure...very noisy and being at the very front corner of the ship it was rocking and rolling all night long (even when the seas were relatively calm.  On the way back we got a much better cabin, thank God because the seas where more than a little choppy.

The small town of Torshaven, Faroe Islands.  We stopped for around 8 hours on the way up and for about 6 hours on the way down, we picked up and let people off the ship.  The Smyril Line is based out of the Faroe Islands.

The shoreline along the Faroe Islands is roughed, with lots of waterfalls and dotted with small rock outcroppings.

Many small farms...

and villages make the shore their home.

At the top of the pass leaving Seydisfjordur we took a moment to look back.  In the background you can see the ship still in the fiord at the base of the snow capped mountains.

With an hour of being on the road in Iceland we were wondering what the heck we had got ourselves into, there was way too much snow.  As it turned out most of the roads through the center of the country were still closed, and impassable by bike for sure.  We ended up riding the ring road (highway1) around Iceland and taking just several small tours of about 200 km total of off-road gravel.

The landscape was a mixture of lava fields, craters, and snow covered mountains that were actually volcanos.

Iceland has an unbelievable amount of hot springs, thermal pools.  In fact, 99 percent of the homes in Iceland are heated with thermal energy, hot water radiant floors that feel oh so good on the tootsies.  Hot water is pumped from wells that produce water up to 180 degrees in temperature then on into cities, villages and homes in a large pipeline.
  
They didn't have to tell me twice, no mater how tempting the water looked!

The weather was very, very windy which I guess is kind of normal (almost).  We tried to go for a hike around the top of the Hverfjall crater one afternoon, the wind just about blew us off the top...we really were being pushed off the top so we turned around and went home.

Water, water and more water.  There are lots of lakes with small islands.  Lake Myvatn in the background is only several meters deep in most places.

We were told that we were very lucky because the mosquitos don't come out at this campsite until June 17th and we we were there June 6th but there just happened to be a hatch of some other fly that night.  By the way this picture was taken around midnight and as you can see the sun is still shining bright.

There are more kinds of birds in Iceland than you could believe.  Many of them come to Iceland only to nest then leave.

At Olatsfjordur we stopped for lunch and met a class of grade 6 students and their teacher, out celebrating the end of the school year by buying popsicles.  They stopped to check out our bike and talk with us, they were very happy to practice their very good english and in the end shared their treats with us.  These students started learning English in the first grade, we are so lucky that English is our first language!
 
The Icelanders love to paint their homes and other buildings bright colours (maybe it perks up the days on long darker winter days?).  This was a bright orange lighthouse, not the only one on the Island that we saw.

Icelandic ponies have a distinct look about them.  They were imported from Norway over 1000 years ago and today they no longer allow other varieties to be imported.  They are beautiful.

On the top of Borgarvirki, a volcanic mountain that has a man made wall built around the top.  The dirt road in the background went around Lake Vesturhopsvatn with great views of farms, birds nesting grounds...
Svalbard, where seals relax on rocky outcroppings...

Hamarsrett, old corrals for livestock.

I don't know, this motorhome is parked directly under/beside a volcano (even if it is no longer active, you just never know), would you get a good nights sleep?  We walked up the trail to the rim where we had a great view inside the crater and the  area around.

We also had a nice view of Sniefellsjorull glacier on the western tip of the island from this area.  We stopped for a picnic lunch, in one of the protected rest areas out of the wind, and enjoyed some time watching the summit of the mountain before the clouds moved in.

Some of the shoreline can be very rugged with many turns and gulls nesting on the cliffs overlooking the sea.  We looked and looked for puffins but unfortunately we never did see any.

Very rugged rocks make for interesting walking trails.

We were just a little early for the roads stretching across the interior of the island, but a little late for the snow mobiles.  Ken wanted to try the Africa Twin out in the snow anyway!

This crevice in the rock made for a great walk,a tight fit inside...

but we walked in a bit. Along a small creek and with birds diving overhead.
 
What an experience!  We couchsurfed in Reykjavik with Kaya and Unnar, they were the ultimate hosts.  Kaya cooked us up icelandic pancakes on our arrival and they made a traditional dinner of reindeer steaks (which were prepared and served very rare, and undeniably the best steaks we have ever tasted), smoked salmon, smoked trout and minky whale meat, all smoked over...horse shit.  Is that really true Unnar?  Being fellow bikers they organized a motorbike ride on the day we were in town but unfortunately the weather was not with us and most everyone went home and we got move than a little wet on our short ride.  We have met the most amazing people couchsurfing, it really is great.  We feel we made some really good friends.

But before we could leave we had to try one of Iceland's famous hotdogs at Boejarins Beztu Pylsur, I guess even Bill Clinton ate a hotdog here.  The dogs were pretty good! (thanks for the photo Kaya)

On a tour of Reykjavik we pulled up in front of a church and a statue dedicated by the USA to Liefr Eiricsson the son of discoverer of Iceland. 

The Blue Lagoon...every tourist has to visit the spa...the fountain of youth.  (We didn't even get to keep our robes for the $45 euro/pp entrance fee.

But we felt (and looked) years younger by the time we left.  Didn't we Unnar?  There is nothing like a silica mud mask for the skin.  These waters are actually the byproduct of a thermo plant but are said to help people with eczema.

Even though the ground is hot and you can't walk on it in some places the air temperature is a little cool.

Lava beer, the name says it all.  It is only suiting, a dark malt beer.

Evidence of the earths movements over the past 1000s of years, large cracks and heaves on the earths surface.

Icelanders love their cross country, offroad vehicles, complete with big offroad tires.

Strokker spits and heaves out boiling water every 6 minutes or so, relieving the pressure built up below.  Geysir, the original, now lays dormant after a shift in the earths surface a few years ago.

It is said that Gullfoss waterfall, or golden falls is named for the golden colour of the glacial water that is seen when the sun shines through the mist...not that we would really know, as it was again cloudy and cool during our visit.  But beautiful nun the less.

Seljalandsfoss, a waterfall that you can walk up to and behind, looking through the falls you can see all kinds of rainbows.

Iceland has some of the world biggest lava flows and the road seems to go on and on through it. 

Sometimes it's a long long road with never a winding curve... and on this occasion the winds were gusting up to 24 m/sec or around 90 km/hr.  Not to much fun for Ken, riding his Africa Twin.

One of the many fingers of Vatnajokull, Icelands largest glacier.

At times the the ice can be seen floating in large lakes as the water melts off the glaciers and pools before making its way to the sea.

Yes, we did see a little wildlife.  This reindeer took a moment to stand and pose for us.  For you hunters out there we can't tell you where this picture was taken!

At times lupines stretch as far as the eye can see.  In the north the flowers where not nearly ready to bloom, but in the south they were beautiful and went on for kilometers at a time.

I just had to get a bike picture in here somewhere!

Black sand beaches line the southern coast.  Actually, it is not really sand but a coarse lava stone.

A little short cut took us up and over a beautiful pass, on some gravel road to join the #1 highway just before Egilisstadir.

It just wouldn't be complete with a few more wild flower pictures!

Back over the pass from Egilisstadir to Seydisfjordur  to catch our ferry returning to Denmark,  what a way to end our trip in Iceland!

Other bikes wait to board the ferry, many have stories the same as ours, but everyone is smiling! 

So that ends our year trip away from Canada.  Where to next?

I'ld like to return to Iceland one day.  I feel we didn't get to see everything, there really is a lot to see in this relatively small country that is so different than our own but in a way a little the same.  They are trying to keep their own traditions and culture alive.  It is like the Wild West of Europe, the people are great, friendly generous and maybe just a little crazy (in a good way).