Slow Boat from Thailand to Laos

We just finished taking the slow boat from Thailand to Laos and survived in fact loved the experience. The two day trip was a relaxing way to be introduced to Laos, the scenery was beautiful and we met some great people, some of whom will remain friends and I'm sure we'll visit in the future. Young backpackers who walked on to the boat alone walked off in groups ready to explore Laung Prabang together. Since we arrived here in Laung Prabang two days ago we have been constantly running into people we met on the boat, chatting and finding out what they have been up to. I would recommend the two day slow boat trip to anyone.

While in Chiang Mai we found many places advertising tours to Chiang Khong, Thailand then to Laos and down the Mekong River on the slow boat with prices including the mini bus to the Laos border and all transfers for about 1800 Baht, just over $55 pp, not bad. We, however, wanted to make a short stop in Chiang Rai so we caught the local bus for 280 Baht, about $10 and made the 3 hour trip, deciding to leave for Laos from there. Slow boat tours from Chiang Rai were about 1600 Baht ($50) but in the end Ken and I agreed to do the trip on our own-no tour, thanks to some tips on the net. This was our trip...

A. We caught the local non-aircon bus from Chiang Rai to Chiang Khong (leaves every 1/2 hour from the station in town, for about 65 Baht-$2), we arrived in Chiang Khong with lots of time to find a great room close to the border, about 2 km from the bus stop. The Chiang Khong Palace was back off the main road, quiet and new, and close to everything. We walked around awhile and had one last meal of possibly the best green curry we had in Thailand and also found a Mexican/Thai/Bakery that made real wholegrain bread, that was a place to have breakfast and sandwiches made for our lunch the first day on the river. Bring food with you on the boat, they have a few things to eat and drink but the choices are slim and expensive.

B. Bright and early, we got up, had our breakfast and got to border when it opened at 8:00, beating the crowds, took the small water taxi across the Mekong to Houay Xai, and checked into Laos. We had American dollars to pay our visa but they did take Baht and Kip, Canadian visas, once again, were the most expensive-$42 while most others were around $35...what a rip.

C. After immigration youwalk to the top of the hill to the main road and turn left and walk the 1 km or so to the Slow Boat pier or turn right and take a tuk tuk the 2 km by road.  We caught a tuk tuk right to the boat landing, avoiding all the people trying to sell us tickets before hand. Buying tickets at the boat for the boat is the cheapest, about 900 Baht for the two day trip and we got there early enough to pick great seats (seats out of a bus or something but most importantly very comfortable, not the wooden bench seats I was expecting!) Yeh! I guess we really didn't have to buy the extra cushions to save our butts! We arrived at the boat around 9 a.m. but it didn't end up leaving until 11:30ish, a bit of a wait but we spent time visiting with Dick and Tita, a couple we met in Chiang Rai, and the time went by quickly. At push off there was approx. 80 people on the boat. Our bags were stored under the floorboards in the boat and we had lots of leg room, the only downfall being that we could not get at our bags when it started to rain and we got a little cool and needed a bit more clothing. After being in nothing but hot weather for a month, who would have thought we would need more clothes? We actually got into some heavy rains during which sides made from tarps where roll down to keep out the wind and rain. Have everything you will need for the day with you on the boat, food, clothes, maybe a book and most definitely your camera!

D. After about 5 1/2 hours on the boat we arrived in Pak Beng and even with all the people from the boat looking for room we had no problem finding a nice clean room at a guesthouse not far from the dock and directly across the street from a great Indian restaurant. Yes, we had power and internet and absolutely no rats in our room, unlike some of the stories we read on the internet. Actually, it was a nice village and we thought it wouldn't be a bad place to spent an extra night but decided not to.

E. The boat left at 9:30, everyone on board, ready and raring to go. The boat was a different one than the day before...smaller...narrower...a little tippier but comfortable all the same. Remember to bring sandwiches for lunch. The second day is a full one, stopping to pick up locals with their goods along the way (so the boat did get a bit full). We arrived in Luang Prabang at around 5:30 on the second night. We didn't have anything booked but believe me the problem is not finding a guest house it is which guest house suits you there are hundreds of them something for every budget.

All in all, after everything the "slow boat" trip cost us 1005 Baht not including hotels and visas, less than $33 pp not quite half price but an adventure!

The view in the morning looking down the Mekong from Pak Beng

Mountians and farmland line the banks of the river.

This stack of eggs was waiting for us at a small village along the way.  There was no room in the boat for the load so they ended up on the roof!

Only one or two slow boats leave a day so the rest may wait for a week before it is their turn to make the trip back up to Chiang Khong.

Many fishermen  are on the river, fishing everyday puts food on the table.

We had quite a rain storm, but for the Laos people it is life as usual.

The other alternative to the Slow Boat is the Fast Boat, notice they are wearing helmets...need I say more?