Monday, December 10, 2012

Around Luang Prabang

Laos, a new country for us and we are excited about that.  The slowboat into Luang Prabang was a great introduction.  As the boat pulled up to the shore more than a few tuktuk drivers waited to whisk us away to one of the many guesthouses.  We didn't have anything booked and didn't really know where to start so we took the first one in line.  To make a long story short, we found a room for the night and in the daylight the next day we found something a little more comfortable...the Sengphet Guesthouse, we would highly recommend it.  We took their most expensive room, $19 for a large very clean room with t.v., internet, free tea and coffee, and all the bananas you could eat!  The guesthouse also had a nice sitting area where we met a couple around our age from Canada and doing a simular trip as us, Guylaine and Greg,  and Victor with his wife and kids from Hungary

We spent 8 days in Luang Prabang and as usual the time went very fast, before writing this I really had to sit down and think about what we did there.  The highlight for me was the four day film festival, films from around Southeast Asia were shown at different venues around town including the town square, a tourist information centre and a FANCY resort (the most expensive in L.P...$1700 a night...the place to be seen in Laos).  We took in at least one film a day, these are the films we saw and what we thought of them;

1. Six Degrees of Separation from Lilia Cuntapay, 2011, Philippines, 4/5*'s
2. Mindfulness and Murder, 2011, Thailand, 4.5/5*'s
3. It Gets Better, 2011, Thailand, 5/5*'s
4. With or Without Me, 2011, Vietnam, 4/5*'s
along with a few shorts the best being
1. Mom...I..., 9 minutes, Laos

All the movies we saw had English subtitles and we enjoyed the whole experience.

We rented mountian bikes, one day, and went in search of some waterfalls we had heard about but we didn't bring a map so we ended up on a wrong road that took us approximately 11 km out of town the last 5 km up into the mountians (we kept pedaling thinking the waterfalls could be just around the next corner).  Instead of waterfalls we arrived at a small village where we stopped for a break and had a chance to interact with some of the locals.  Everyone we saw gave us a big smile and a "Sawiadee" (hello in Laos).  The ride downhill was much easier than up, Ken got a strange look and a smile as he passed a guy on a moped!

After not finding the waterfalls on the mountian bikes we decided to rent a moped the next day and try again, choosing a faster form of transportation.  We found 2 waterfalls, the Tat Sae Waterfall, small but with next to no tourists, and the Kuang Si Waterfall, very busy but impressive there they had a sanctuary for 6 asian bears.  The asian bears are about same size a our black bears but with big heads like a grizzly and round fuzzy ears like a teddy bear.  We hiked around both waterfalls and found ourselves dripping with sweat from the humidity, the temperature was around 28 degrees and the humidity close to 90 percent.  Drink lots of water!!!we told ourselves.

On other days, we did lots of walking in town, visiting the National Museum (the old royal palace) and many Wats, and enjoyed drinks and the view at a restaurant overlooking the river.   We found a great restaurant  called "Delilahs" where we, quite often, had the "Laos farmer breakfast"-an omlette with onion/tomato/and dill, sticky rice, steamed vegies and a dip made from eggplant and garlic, yummy! and all for under $3.  I think it would be very easy to be a vegetarian here, with all the veggies and fresh fruit shakes.  

For the first couple of days in L.P. we ran into many of the same people from the slowboat but as the days went by we saw fewer and fewer,  it was our clue...time to move on.


Kuang Si Waterfall.  Look closely Ken is standing in the middle.


The countryside around Luang Pragang, farmland mixed in with dense foliage.  The diet in Laos is fairly healthy, lots of vegetables, but unfortunately a lot of the food is fried.  You will not see a McDonalds anywhere though!  



The view out of a window of one of the many wats.  This one has a nice view of the national museum(formerly the royal palace), and the surrounding gardens.



A monk at a temple, contemplating life or ???



Froggies on a stick.



Luang Prabang and the Khan River as seen fromThat Chomsi on Phousi Hill, located in the middle of the old town area..



Apprentice Monks say a prayer for the people on Luang Prabang.  Alms is given each morning from around six a.m. The Monks walk the streets collecting food from the people and in return they pray for them.



On a bike trip up into a mountain village we met the locals and had a great time with them.  


On several evenings we walked down to the town square and watched a film on a large screen they had put up.



For Alm, an offering of rice and flowers left for the Monks sits outside a house on the gate.

Sunday, December 2, 2012

Millions

Ken's a millionaire!  One trip to the ATM and let's go shopping!  8000 Kip =  just over $1.  It's nothing for us to blow $30,000 I mean Kip for a dinner for two.

Saturday, December 1, 2012

Slow Boat from Thailand to Laos

We just finished taking the slow boat from Thailand to Laos and survived in fact loved the experience. The two day trip was a relaxing way to be introduced to Laos, the scenery was beautiful and we met some great people, some of whom will remain friends and I'm sure we'll visit in the future. Young backpackers who walked on to the boat alone walked off in groups ready to explore Laung Prabang together. Since we arrived here in Laung Prabang two days ago we have been constantly running into people we met on the boat, chatting and finding out what they have been up to. I would recommend the two day slow boat trip to anyone.

While in Chiang Mai we found many places advertising tours to Chiang Khong, Thailand then to Laos and down the Mekong River on the slow boat with prices including the mini bus to the Laos border and all transfers for about 1800 Baht, just over $55 pp, not bad. We, however, wanted to make a short stop in Chiang Rai so we caught the local bus for 280 Baht, about $10 and made the 3 hour trip, deciding to leave for Laos from there. Slow boat tours from Chiang Rai were about 1600 Baht ($50) but in the end Ken and I agreed to do the trip on our own-no tour, thanks to some tips on the net. This was our trip...

A. We caught the local non-aircon bus from Chiang Rai to Chiang Khong (leaves every 1/2 hour from the station in town, for about 65 Baht-$2), we arrived in Chiang Khong with lots of time to find a great room close to the border, about 2 km from the bus stop. The Chiang Khong Palace was back off the main road, quiet and new, and close to everything. We walked around awhile and had one last meal of possibly the best green curry we had in Thailand and also found a Mexican/Thai/Bakery that made real wholegrain bread, that was a place to have breakfast and sandwiches made for our lunch the first day on the river. Bring food with you on the boat, they have a few things to eat and drink but the choices are slim and expensive.

B. Bright and early, we got up, had our breakfast and got to border when it opened at 8:00, beating the crowds, took the small water taxi across the Mekong to Houay Xai, and checked into Laos. We had American dollars to pay our visa but they did take Baht and Kip, Canadian visas, once again, were the most expensive-$42 while most others were around $35...what a rip.

C. After immigration youwalk to the top of the hill to the main road and turn left and walk the 1 km or so to the Slow Boat pier or turn right and take a tuk tuk the 2 km by road.  We caught a tuk tuk right to the boat landing, avoiding all the people trying to sell us tickets before hand. Buying tickets at the boat for the boat is the cheapest, about 900 Baht for the two day trip and we got there early enough to pick great seats (seats out of a bus or something but most importantly very comfortable, not the wooden bench seats I was expecting!) Yeh! I guess we really didn't have to buy the extra cushions to save our butts! We arrived at the boat around 9 a.m. but it didn't end up leaving until 11:30ish, a bit of a wait but we spent time visiting with Dick and Tita, a couple we met in Chiang Rai, and the time went by quickly. At push off there was approx. 80 people on the boat. Our bags were stored under the floorboards in the boat and we had lots of leg room, the only downfall being that we could not get at our bags when it started to rain and we got a little cool and needed a bit more clothing. After being in nothing but hot weather for a month, who would have thought we would need more clothes? We actually got into some heavy rains during which sides made from tarps where roll down to keep out the wind and rain. Have everything you will need for the day with you on the boat, food, clothes, maybe a book and most definitely your camera!

D. After about 5 1/2 hours on the boat we arrived in Pak Beng and even with all the people from the boat looking for room we had no problem finding a nice clean room at a guesthouse not far from the dock and directly across the street from a great Indian restaurant. Yes, we had power and internet and absolutely no rats in our room, unlike some of the stories we read on the internet. Actually, it was a nice village and we thought it wouldn't be a bad place to spent an extra night but decided not to.

E. The boat left at 9:30, everyone on board, ready and raring to go. The boat was a different one than the day before...smaller...narrower...a little tippier but comfortable all the same. Remember to bring sandwiches for lunch. The second day is a full one, stopping to pick up locals with their goods along the way (so the boat did get a bit full). We arrived in Luang Prabang at around 5:30 on the second night. We didn't have anything booked but believe me the problem is not finding a guest house it is which guest house suits you there are hundreds of them something for every budget.

All in all, after everything the "slow boat" trip cost us 1005 Baht not including hotels and visas, less than $33 pp not quite half price but an adventure!






The view in the morning looking down the Mekong from Pak Beng



Mountians and farmland line the banks of the river.



This stack of eggs was waiting for us at a small village along the way.  There was no room in the boat for the load so they ended up on the roof!



Only one or two slow boats leave a day so the rest may wait for a week before it is their turn to make the trip back up to Chiang Khong.



Many fishermen  are on the river, fishing everyday puts food on the table.



We had quite a rain storm, but for the Laos people it is life as usual.



The other alternative to the Slow Boat is the Fast Boat, notice they are wearing helmets...need I say more?

Sunday, November 25, 2012

Chiang Rai

A trip to Chiang Rai isn't complete without taking in a Temple or two and they always look impressive at night, all lit up!

Saturday, November 24, 2012

Leaving Chiang Mai and Thailand

After 3 and a half weeks in Chiang Mai we found it hard to leave. The people at the Prince Hotel where next to family to us and relaxing around the pool had become habitual. I, more than Ken, am getting anxious to see new sights and move on to other countries. Meanwhile, our last week in Chiang Mai was spent seeing a few of the tourists sights, namely the umbrella factory and the silk factory. The city is getting very busy, December is high season here and now they are getting ready for the 'Loi Krathong Festival' or the 'Festival of Lights' which is celebrated on the full moon in November (the 28th this years). This is celebrated by floating little boats made of bamboo, or leafs etc with candles and incense inside of them down the river, lots of fireworks and sending hot air lanterns up into the sky. Although Chiang Mai has the largest festival in Thailand we will miss it because our visa will be expiring on the 29th and we have to leave the country. So... we left Chiang Mai yesterday and took the Vip bus(air-con, snacks, and oversized seats) to Chiang Rai. Chiang Rai is a city we visited on our last trip but more importantly it is the stepping stone to the 'Slow Boat' down the Mekong River to Laos. Two days motoring in a long tail boat just us and 80 or so other tourists, sounds interesting...we shall see.



Ken watches our lantern fly up into the night sky.  If it crashes it is
bad luck for you but if it floats up, up and away(like ours did) it is good luck!




Getting a nightly massage can become a habit.  At the Sunday night market a foot, back and shoulder massage costs 120B, about four dollars.




As part of the "Festival of Light" very colourful lanterns are hung around the doors and terraces.




A look down at the center of the Chinese marketplace. I think the total floor space of Chiang Mai's Chinese market would give the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul a run for its money.


The many threads of silk from the silk worms cacoon make up the one single strand of silk thread.











Thursday, November 15, 2012

Two Weeks in Chiang Mai

It is hard to believe we have been in Chiang Mai for 2 weeks already. Having been here before, we have seen a lot of the sights(any that would interest us anyway)so we have been laying low enjoying the markets, getting the odd massage(you really have to like these), walking around the old town, and reading by the pool...oh ya, and making a return visit to the zoo and the aquarium. We have only clocked about 150 km on 2 wheels(scooters)but as I said we are relaxing with a capital R. We have our favourite places to eat...M&M restaurant, just around the corner from our hotel, and Tips smoothie stand in one of the local markets in the old town. There is a lot of vehicle traffic here, be it car, truck, tuk tuk or moped so walking is not that easy on the busy roads and the the fumes can be a bit much, but we seem to get around o.k. The trick is to get up early if you want to walk for exercise and walk in the old town on the small streets if you just want to get out.

We don't seem to be in any hurry to leave 'The Prince Hotel', the staff are great and life is easy. However, the visitor visa is only for 30 days so we will have to look at a map and decide where we will go next.

While on ride in the country we came across these and about 12 other ladies sitting in the water fishing for something.  They showed us their catch and sure enough they were collecting tiny, tiny fish in wicker baskets.  It would take for  ever to accumulate enough for a meal and boy their fingers and toes must get pruney! 



One of the friends we made at the zoo.  Ken was feeding him bananas.



The "Flower Festival" was just finishing up in the beginning of November , and we caught a few of the displays at the mall.



In the aquarium, sometimes it's hard to tell which end is up!


Inside 'the tunnel' in the aquarium which makes its way through a  huge pool full of every type of saltwater fish you could think of.



A look down one of the many alleys at the fruit and vegetable market, open 24 hours a day.



Momma and baby at the zoo.



Brightly coloured clothes make the monks very easy to pick out of a crowd, and there are a lot of them here ...of all ages.



Again...the aquarium...half fish-half frog.



Guess where?  Too many cool things to see.



Another friend at the zoo, aint he cute.





Wats are all over the city, some old and some new but all are definately something to see.

Sunday, November 4, 2012

Thailand Here We Come!


Well, here we are on another leg of our trip, without a motorbike!!! Thanks to Franz and Sabine for helping us with last minute flight details and getting us to the airport on time. We threw Qatar Airlines: Frankfurt-Doha-Bangkok-Chiang Mai, what a great flight(as great as being on a plane for 18 hours can be). The service was outstanding, with good food, personal media centers, and seats big enough Ken could even stretch out, we will look for them again next time!

Here in Chiang Mai, we are hold up at the Prince Hotel, the same place we stayed last time we were here(was it really close to 3 years ago). The price has gone up slightly, we are now paying close to $20 for our hotel with a pool, wifi, big room and a staff that is close to family. As we get used to the time change we are enjoying sleeping in, exploring in the old town, and cruising the night markets, not to mention that you really have to love the Thai food!

A few months without a bike...well our own bike. We will rent scooters to explore the countryside but this trip will be a little bit different than the last 5 months.